Adobe elements photoshop 2021 – adobe elements photoshop 2021
We are happy to announce the release of Photoshop Elements This free update includes crash fixes and critical security fixes. Additionally, the following fix has been done:. Adobe Support Community. Turn on suggestions. Auto-suggest helps you quickly narrow down your search results by suggesting possible matches as you type. Showing results for. Show only Search instead for. Did you mean:. Photoshop Elements Mohit Goyal. Additionally, the following fix has been done: Fixed issue : Center image option not working in the Print dialog box Apply the adobe elements photoshop 2021 – adobe elements photoshop 2021 in one of the following ways: Click Install Now or Install On Exit in the update message displayed in Photoshop Elements.
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[Mastering Adobe Photoshop Elements – Third Edition | Packt
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Smart Home. Smart Office. Industry Solutions. Customer Support. Technical Support. As mentioned in Chapter 1 , Photoshop Elements General Features Overview , when images are imported into the Elements Organizer, they are not physically copied into the application; they are just linked from the place where they are stored typically, this is the Pictures folder to the Organizer. Should Elements or your computer develop a technical issue and you have to delete and reinstall the application, you just need to reinstate the catalog from the backup version, and it automatically re-links all files.
Sometimes, it’s necessary to actually point the program to the hard drive where the images are stored, but as often as not, Elements will search and find every image that was previously linked in the catalog. It’s a cleve r program. Import: Using the Import button on the top left-hand side in the Organizer , you can bring images, audio, or video clips into the Elements Organizer directly using the From Files and Folders option.
These files can physically reside anywhere — locally, on the computer, or externally on a drive. There are also options to import files directly from a camera or a card reader, or in bulk from pre-organized folders. The panel on the right-hand side of the main window holds both keyword and metadata information about each file. Because of this linking process, it’s not advisable to rename or move files that have already been imported into Elements.
If files are moved or renamed using the Windows Explorer or Mac’s Finder, the next time Elements starts, it will prompt you that the file is missing and immediately start a search for the file. This is fine if the name remains the same, but if it has a new name, it will have to be re-imported. You can leave Elements to complete the search, or do it yourself, if you know where the file was moved to. How long Elements takes to locate a moved file depends on how big your photo coll ection is.
The import process is fast because Elements only copies thumbnails and the metadata essentially text when it forms a link to the original files. So, to avoid wasting time searching for files that have been renamed or moved after they were imported into the Organizer, it makes sense to sort out the storage hierarchy on the computer or external drives before importing to the ap plication.
We all have different ways with which to organize our busy photographic lives. Some prefer to store files by date, others prefer to name everything according to events in their lives. There’s no right or wrong way to do this. The best method is the one that you are going to remember.
Making albums: In this screenshot, I have created an album called Animals. Selecting the album on the left-hand side of the window will display the contents of that album in the main window. As with most features in Elements, an album can be renamed at any time. The huge advantage of creating albums, apart from enabling you to easily compartmentalize your work into smaller, more practical collections, is that you can have the same image or images in multiple albums without increasing the space taken up on the stor age drive.
Before you import a second batch of images, it makes sense to sort out the first batch, because if you continue to import folder after folder of images, before long, you’ll have thousands displayed in the main screen, and that can get very confusing.
Once imported into the Organizer, you can see exactly where on your hard drives those imported files reside through the Folders menu in the left-hand bin. That said, there are basic rules I can suggest that will make the editing process flo w better:.
Auto Curate: Photoshop Elements has a number of quite powerful but often overlooked features — including this one, called Auto Curate , highlighted here in red, which picks the top images from the Organizer. The results might surprise you.
With your media displayed in the main window, check the Auto Curate box and watch as Elements finds 50 of the best images from anything up to 20, images according to Adobe. As I think most of the images in my test media are good anyway, it’s a mystery how it finds 50 or any number you choose of the best. Nonetheless, this is worth a look for a quick, frustration-free selection. Some photographers prefer to divide image collections into multiple catalogs. For example, wedding photographers might have a separate catalog for each client.
For most of us, one catalog is enough because you can only open one catalog at a ti me anyway. Most of the cheaper point-and-shoot type cameras only use JPEGs. RAW files are far less universal and require a specific software to work.
As each new camera model produces an entirely new type of RAW file, Elements has to be updated reasonably regularly so it can keep up to date with all the new stuff coming on to the market. If you have just bought a new camera, don’t be surprised if Elements cannot read its RAW files.
In the interim, you can always use the software that came with the camera to open RAW files or download the free Adobe DNG file format converter, convert your RAW files to the DNG format and edit from those till the new software is ready.
Looking at your media in the Organizer couldn’t be easier. The main window displays all media files in a mode called Grid View —these are adjustable-size thumbnails. But note that if you create and populate albums, the main window will only display the contents of e ach album. Compartmentalizing a photo collection into multiple albums, therefore, is an effective way to break up what would otherwise be a confusing mass of files populating or flooding the main screen into smaller, more visually digestible q uantities.
Every time you find an image that you want to keep or think needs editing, you can classify it using the number keys to add one, two, three, four, or five stars see the Organizing your work — ratings section later in this chapter. Use these to sort and search for images.
Pressing the number zero on the keypad removes all star attributes. You can also see that once expanded to full screen, you can also type in a caption for the displayed image and play any associated sound that is, if it’s a movie clip.
Even better, there are no restrictions as to how many albums you can create and, since they are essentially virtual folders, they don’t take up much stora ge space. As we expand our image and media collection, we’ll not only need large capacity hard drives, but also data backups. It’s important to perform backups in case the original drive corrupts, or suffers a mechanical failure. Nothing is forever and even though the drive might be a premium brand, things can still go wrong, usually when you least expect it.
There’s no point in backing up images, or your Elements Catalog, to the place where the originals are also stored—typically your computer’s hard drive. If it becomes corrupted, everything is lost. Consider a large-capacity hard drive that is used only for backing up your data: images, music, Elements’ Catalog, and so on.
Most PCs have room for additional internal drives. If you use a Mac, you’d be best to buy an external h ard drive. If you are using a Mac, backing up your data is easy using a pre-installed Apple application called Time Machine. Windows users also have it easy because most quality external drives such as Seagate and Western Digital come with automated backup software included.
This software takes only a few moments to set up. Once done, you can forget it, because it automatically backs all your new material up every hour, day, or week depending on how you initially set up its preferences. Another viable option is to back up to the cloud. In many ways this is the most secure option as those companies spend an awful lot more on data security than any individual photographer! Above: Here’s a standard desktop hard drive with a massive 8 TB storage capacity, of the type easily purchased online or from most good computer stores.
It’s perfect for all your media backup req uirements. Top left: For most of us the purchase of a desktop hard drive is the perfect solution for media backup. Devices are not expensive, come in a wide range of models and storage capacities, and if you fill one with your image files, it’s easy enough to buy more to add to the library. Left: The two screenshots here show Western Digital’s free backup software available for Mac and Windows on the left, and Apple’s excellent Time Machine software utility, which comes pre-loaded on every Mac, on the right.
Some of you might be familiar with the Windows operating system’s star ratings. This is a feature that allows you to award a file from one to five stars, depending on their merit.
You can then search for files in this context, images that are displaying X number of stars. You might give your best images five stars, and those that need editing three stars — that kind of thing. Ratings appear in a wide range of photo editing applications, including Adobe Bridge, Lightroom, and CameraBits’ Photo Mechanic, for good reason—it’s a system that’s easy to implement and effective in its organizational potential.
Here’s h ow to get this happening:. Step one: Right-click an image in the Organizer. Step two: From Ratings in the contextual menu, slide over the number of stars y ou’d like to award that image from Or select one or more images in the main window, and hit any number key between 1 and 5 use the top of the keyboard not the number keypad to add a rating.
Step three: To search for an already-rated image, click the appropriate star symbol in the Ratings search field top of the screen just under the Create tab , and everything in the main screen with that star rating remains. All else is hidden until you click the same star rating again to zero th e search. Note that this search can be refined by clicking the tiny symbol to the right of the word Ratings to set Greater than, or equal to , or Less than, or equal to , or Rating is equal to.
It can make a big difference to your search results. This is an exceptionally intuitive system that’s easy to set up, easy to modify, and very efficient in its search results—just use that pop-out menu to lower, raise, or delete the rating if required. Contextual menu help: While sorting through recently imported images, get into the habit of right-clicking a thumbnail. This reveals a contextual menu that offers many options, but in particular reference to sorting images, you can choose from any of the following: Delete from Catalog, Edit with Photoshop Elements Editor, Edit with Premiere Elements Editor, Adjust Date good for when you cross different time zones , Add Caption, Add a Rating stars , Add a Person identified in the image for later searches , Create a Slideshow when more than one image thumbnail is selected , and Show File Info that is view the file’s metadata.
All g ood stuff. Metadata is little more than a small text file that records all your camera details at the time a photo is taken. We rarely read the metadata unless we specifically look for it or, in this context, use it to search for images. Metadata records camera and lens details, date, time, size, resolution, filename, and if your camera has the feature, a set of GPS co ordinates.
The advantage of metadata is that the information already exists, so we can use Organizer to search our image database using any of those pre-recorded metadata details for a fa st result. You might consider that the Find by Details Metadata search field looks a bit confusing because it offers so many ways to search for images. You can also use this dialog box to save frequently used searches—a real time-saver.
It can also be used to search for images by the date and time captured This is especially useful if you holiday in different ti me zones. By default it opens with Search for files which match any of the following search criteria by capture date—which you choose using the drop-down menu.
This is a very wide type of search but as you’ll discover, you can click that left-hand menu to see 36 other search options. As I write a lot about camera technique, I often search for specific things such as aperture f-stop , ISO setting, focal length, and White Balance, which makes the task of trawling through hundreds of potential image files a breeze.
Another criterion I use a lot is to search for camera type , or the date taken —but if you are more interested in searching for people, for example, you can also access all of Elements’ other methods of search, including People tags , Event tags , and of course , keywords.
Quick information: The Information panel shown here shares space in the right-hand panel with Tags , and is quite comprehensive—there’s a compact version and an extended version seen here, currently occupying the entire right-han d panel.
Above that is the General menu for the purposes of this illustration, it’s floating over the thumbnail picture grid, to the left of the extended Information panel. This displays a few snippets of that file’s metadata, as well as the star rating and where it physically resides on your hard drives. Interestingly, the information displayed here is somewhat truncated when compared to the full search capabilities displayed through the Find menu—but nevertheless, it’s a good place to start yo ur search.
Right-clicking any thumbnail and choosing Delete from Catalog brings up a dialog window asking if you also want to physically delete the original file from wherever it might be stored.
This is handy if you think it really needs to go! You can take your keywording as far as you have the time and patience for by being increasingly specific. For example, I could also keyword my holiday pictures with the words beaches, restaurants, funny signs, people, markets, night life, sunsets, palm trees, cocktails, and so on. If you add multiple keywords, separate them with a comma , to avoid confusing the search engine.
Limit keywords to five or six per image. Too many keywords can be counter-productive. One of the best features in Elements is its ability to sort out hundreds, thousands, or even tens of thousands of images using the tested method of key word tags. While viewing a newly imported batch of pictures, select a file by clicking it once and, on the bottom right-hand side of the screen, type in a keyword.
Keyword tagging: You can see that, in the pink highlighted area, I have added the words ‘Surfing’ and ‘Australia’. I think keywording is one of the most important setup features in this program. Get in the habit of adding a keyword, or keywords, to everything you import into the Organizer and you will be able to search, and find, almost any image weeks, months, and even years later.
It’s an incredibly efficient and effective system of image r etrieval. Let’s say you have got back home after a vacation. Select all the images from the vacation and type the name of the place you visited. If you went to Australia, for example, all images could be keyworded as ‘Australia’.
But if half that time was spent in the mountains around the town of Katoomba, re-select those images of Katoomba alone and add ‘Katoomba’ as the keyword. If three days in Australia were spent surfing, select those images only, and add the keyword ‘surfing’. This takes only a few minutes and, with a little forethought, you’ll quickly be able to keyword all the important events in this album named Holiday in Australia so that, months or years later, you can search for Australia, surfing, or cocktails, for example, and Elements will locate those images almost instantly.
Searching in practice: In the Search field the blue magnifying glass icon, top right-hand side of the Organizer screen , type in a location and maybe an event using whatever keywords are appropriate such as Surfing or Australia , and the Organizer will find those images within seconds.
It’s fast because it only has to sort through its database which is essentially a text record ; not through gigabytes of high-resolution RAW files. Personalizing Tags: In this screenshot, I right-clicked my Surfing keyword t ag in the right-hand bin and chose Edit from the contextual menu.
This brings up the Edit Keyword Tag window above, on the left. You can edit the name of the tag and add comments. Clicking the Edit Icon tab brings up another, larger window, into which you can load a surfing picture to make that group instantly recognizable. It’s a cute feature, but it won’t really improve your workflow. Keywording is an easy process, but the real magic only really begins when you try to search for specific images shot on that trip.
Keyword tags are written into the file so that, if I sent a bunch of my tagged images to a third party, they would be able to sort them using my attached tags. Elements’ tags can be read by a range of other image editing software programs.
An album, on the ot her hand, is a purely Elements-onl y feature. If you create a new tag in the right-hand tag bin, you can apply it to any image simply by dragging that tag onto the photo thumbnail. If you have a hundred images that need the same tag, select all of them first, drag the newly made tag onto any one of the selected thumbnails, and it will automatically apply that tag to all selected images.
V ery smart! Tag management: In this screenshot, I have enlarged the pop-out Tags menu to show its various options. There’s everything here that you need to fully label everything you bring into Elements. Pay attention to the tagging process and you’ll never lose an im age again.
In the example here, use it to create a new keyword tag, new category, new sub-category, or to import tags from a file, to save tags to file, or to expand and collapse the tag h ierarchy. The Organizer has a huge range of features designed to help photographers keep track of, and search for, their images. I think there are too many search features—but th at’s just m y opinion. The Places feature has been in Elements for many years. Its principal use is to automatically put any image that contains GPS data onto an internet-driven world map so that users can identify pictures simply by seeing the locations where they were actu ally shot.
Elements’ People window will find images of your friends—but it also finds every image that looks like a face, including pictures in posters and abstract backgrounds. These can easily be discounted by right-clicking the icon and choosing Don’t show Again. As soon as an image gets a proper name, it’s automatically moved into the Named tab and stacks with similarly named images. For those of us that prefer to identify our images based on the content, and specifically on the people depicted in the files, you’ll find the People feature v ery handy.
Organizing your people: Like the keywords feature, the People feature, shown in this screenshot, allows you to subdivide your found faces into smaller categories, or groups, as seen on the right-hand side of the screen.
Like most organizational tools in Elements, you can choose to work simply by adopting just keywords, or maybe the ratings, or you can use a combination of everything covered in this section to create a sophisticated and deep searchable database. The best advice is to make up your mind regarding which way is best for you before you start; that way, you can streamline your workload from day one rather than having to go back over everything that’s been imported into the Organizer because you changed your mind about how to organize you r images.
You can merge one stack into another simply by click-dragging one file over another. You can further refine the sort process by adding stacks to groups—such as Family. As with most Elements features, there’s no limit to the number of groups you can have. If you discover an ‘inappropriate’ face in the stack, and right-click the Faces icon, and choose Not You can also use this pop-out menu to assign that image as a profile photo this is the default top of the stack.
Finally, there’s the Don’t Show Again command, which hides that image from ever appearing in the people view again. Some newer models can also record digital negative RAW files. We’ll look at these later in thi s chapter. These are processed in-camera and then compressed squashed to maximize storage space, before being saved to the mem ory card.
RAW files are usually bit files that have little or no processing applied in-camera, and they are not compressed before being saved to the memory card.
Though shooting in the RAW format is recommended, you’ll find that your camera’s files are quite different to RAW files from other camera models. Sony RAW files use the suffix. Here’s a view of a Canon RAW file displayed in a browser window. It has the. CR2 suffix common to all Cano n cameras.
Although each camera manufacturer shares the same three-letter suffix across all of its camera range, RAW files produced by different models are quite different to each other that is, RAW files from the Nikon D are different to the Nikon D, D, and D RAW files. This is why it takes companies such as Adobe several months to provide an update for the different RAW file types designed for each new camera make and model.
If you are an early adopter, waiting for Adobe to catch up and release a compatibility update can be a source of fr ustration.
Once edited in this space, a RAW file must be either closed there’s no saving with RAW files — it automatically records all the edits applied to it , or it can be saved in a more universally acceptable file format for storage, backup, or later dist ribution. But what’s the difference between these formats and when would be the best situation to use them?
Choosing the right format to save your edited work is an important decision because it can have direct ramifications on both final image quality and your backup and archiving practices.
Physical file sizes: To illustrate the different properties of image files, I saved the same photo in six different file formats. Because JPEGs are compressible, its saved state is considerably smaller than everything else, hence its popularity in social media, the web, and emailing. Compressed to the maximum the smallest saved file size , reduces it to only KB – less than one megabyte — but that compression level would seriously damage the quality.
Despite my original Canon. CR2 RAW file being The curious term Bit depth relates to the amount of color information held in an im age file. The higher the bit depth in a file, the more color information it contains; and more information produces significantly smoother tonal gradation, which in turn produces a nicer-looking and more realist ic image.
Single-bit color is made up of two colors only—black and white – rarely used in photography other than in the creation of masks – 8-bit color produces tones, which was considered an acceptable number for the photograph – until, that is, bit color came along and produced No need to count them, they just look good.
Top-of-the-range cameras can now record bit and files. Too much compression? The close-up of this bespectacled gentleman displays the problems over-compressing JPEG files, at left, will create. Don’t get me wrong—JPEG files are great because they can be compressed. However, if they are squashed too much that is, set to level 7 or lower in the JPEG Options box , you’ll see a significant deterioration in image clarity and color the left half of this composite image was set to Quality : 0 , producing a ti ny file.
Too much compression, or repeated saving and therefore repeated compression , will generate ugly image artifacts , for example, in the form of posterization banding seen mostly in the smoother tones. Over-compression will also create inaccurate color, and might even introduce blocky-looking pixels when compared to the minimal compression level 12 setting, as seen on the right of the illustration above, producing a larger saved file but with smoother, more accur ate tones.
These include the following:. While a software-driven data backup is a good procedure to set up for all users, it might not back up your Photoshop Elements catalog. And even if it did, it wouldn’t be in a format that Elements can recognize, should you need to restore it after a softwa re mishap. Back up the catalog: It’s important to ensure that your backed-up catalog is saved to a location different to where the default catalog is stored. For most, this mea ns saving it to a different drive — in the screenshot above, there are five different drives available f or backup.
If you purchase a RAID drive multiple hard drives in one box , you can program it to back up once to each drive, essentially giving you two complete backups in one operation, so if one drive fails, you still have a second copy to use.
What’s actually inside the catalog? Although Elements’ backup process can be a lifesaver, it’s not the same as a regular Windows or Mac operating system backup. With Elements, the backed up files are referenced in a completely different way to those that are copied to a different hard drive — which is why if you open the Elements backup file, everything appears scrambled, as you see here.
However, if you reinstate the catalog via the correct process, everything reappears in perf ect order. The files’ proper names are reinstated once a Catalog Restore function is completed.
Generally, we only access an Elements backup if the original has been co mpromised and we need to restore the entire catalogs contents. In an emergency, you can still open the Backup folder and pull out images, if need be. Make sure that the location of the backup is not on the local drive—put it on an external drive.
Elements insists on a full backup to begin with, then a partial backup if you are just updating work as you go. Cameras, all monitors, and most printers can display only a limited range of colors — this is called the color space.
Most color spaces correctly claim to encompass a broader range of color than sRGB. While this is certainly true, actually being able to see an increase in the range of colors with one of these wider-ranging spaces, on both a computer screen and in print, is a characteristic that’s hard to evaluate because most screens and printers cannot recreate the number of colors captured by the camera regardless of what color space it was re corded in.
I think the best practice for amateur photographers is to choose sRGB. This matches the range of colors that most monitors can display. Plus it matches the gamut, or range, of most consumer photo inkjet printers. That said, some commercial lithographic print businesses now require files to be Adobe RGB in order to match the high-end print machines they use. If you are considering a move to commercial photography, then Adobe RGB is the best color space setting.
That said, a good color pre-press business sh ould also be able to make these space conversions for you, for a fee. Adobe RGB versus sRGB Color space: Camera menus tend to be somewhat different from each other—refer to the camera manual to find the option of color space in the me nu setup. For many, the fact that sRGB has a smaller range of colors makes no difference—it’s only when asked to reproduce very specific colors for example, in a catalog that you need to consider spaces such as Adobe RGB Keep it current: Elements is fully compatible with most RAW file formats, provided that your software is up to date.
This normally works perfectly but occasionally it doesn’t load the latest software update. You’ll notice this when trying to open a RAW file from a new camera. Elements will state that it ” If that fails, go to the Adobe site and follow the prompts to download the update and install it manually.
It’s a sad fact that all image editing is virtually worthless if the monitor on which you make all your creative decisions doesn’t actually represent the correct color, brightness, and contrast ac curately. Color management—the process of making sure that what you see onscreen is both accurate to life and will be correctly reproduced online and in print—is, I think, an unnecessarily complex operation.
Although Elements’ calibration is not nearly as controllable as that found in Photoshop CC, it’s presented in a reasonably easy format that should work well in most situations.
And if you are sending your work into a commercial print environment, you can always let them handle the finer complexities of color reproduction, which allows you to pay more attention to the editing process. What you’ll find in the program’s Color Settings dialog box are four simple questions:.
Essentially, this means that if you choose to ignore any color management, Elements will discard existing color space settings, but if you choose to optimize colors, the color range will be kept within the existing sRGB co lor range.
If you go for the printing option, it would be best to set AdobeRGB in your camera. Another important technique for ensuring that what you see onscreen is accurate is to calibrate your monitor with a hardware calibratio n device.
These third-party sensors plug into the USB outlet on the computer and hang over the screen. If the screen is different to the known value for these colors, the software adjusts the brightness and color to make it display correctly.
This is a far more accurate method of color management than using the human eye to gauge the settings. As a general rule, screens need calibrating every six months or so, especially if they are u sed a lot. Screen calibration: Attaching a USB-powered hardware calibrator to the laptop or desktop screen is easy. Pictured is the reasonably inexpensive ColorVision Spyder 5 device. This process needs to be done probably once every six months or so, to ensure that what you see onscreen is a realistic representation of the original image.
It does not ensure print accuracy—that’s the job of another device s ee below. Printer calibration: Making what comes out in print look exactly the same as what’s seen onscreen is a slightly trickier and more expensive operation. For this you need another scanner that can read both screens and test prints. It takes longer to print and scan the resulting chequerboard of colors, but once done, the accuracy of screen to printed paper is ex ceptional.
I always provide my students with a list of keyboard shortcuts. I can usually see that most are not happy with having yet more stuff to remember. But if you limit yourself to using some of these, instead of relying on the mouse all the time, you’ll not only reduce the risk of RSI, but you’ll find many repetitive tasks so much safer and faster to execute.
Two hands are always better than one:. It’s always been something of a dry subject, but setting up a computer for quality photo editing tasks is not as simple a task as many might imagine—and of course, it’s far more demanding on your equipment than simply doing a few emails and surfing the internet!
This chapter explained the basics of setting up a computer: adding memory, choosing hard drives, considering backup drive options, as well as learning about color spaces, and calibrating the monitor so that what we see onscreen is an accurate depiction of what we photographed.
It’s a big topic but once understood, it will send you out into the editing universe well prepared. We also took note of the many tools found in Elements Organizer that are designed to help us keep track of our ever-increasing photo and video media collections. And again, although this is often seen as being as exciting as cleaning the bathroom or filling out a tax return, once done, you’ll find yourself on top of the image cataloging process, thus making future expansions to your image collections significantly less pr oblematic.
And we haven’t even edited an image yet! But coming up in the next chapter, you’ll find a heap of great information about adding a range of basic and easy edits to images—all of which can produce brilliant results: dealing with RAW files, saving files, cropping, straightening, lightening, darkening, and a great deal more.
It doesn’t take long to produce truly impressive results with this editing ap plication. Born in the UK, Robin Nichols has always had a great love for recording the world with a camera.
After finishing school, he studied fine art, before moving on to study at Nottingham Trent University, where he gained a degree in creative photography. He subsequently worked in the advertising industry for several years, before emigrating to Australia in Robin has always worked in photography: as a black and white printer, a cameraman, a stock photographer, and a freelance photographer. Leverage Python and Raspberry Pi to create complex IoT applications capable of creating and detecting movement and measuring distance, light, and a host of other environmental conditions.
Discover the current landscape of full-stack development and how to leverage modern web technologies for building production-ready React. Discover practical recipes to get to grips with Node. About this book Managing thousands of images while producing perfectly edited results is now a must-have skill for online bloggers, influencers, vloggers, social media users, and photography enthusiasts.
Publication date: December Publisher Packt. Pages ISBN Download code from GitHub. Setting up a photo editin g computer Although we take computers much for granted these days, using such a machine to store, process, and edit high-resolution stills and video data requires a totally different set of features compared to a machine that’s only used for web browsing, social media, emailing, or download ing music.
Importing media into the Elements Organizer As mentioned in Chapter 1 , Photoshop Elements General Features Overview , when images are imported into the Elements Organizer, they are not physically copied into the application; they are just linked from the place where they are stored typically, this is the Pictures folder to the Organizer.
Reviewing the media Looking at your media in the Organizer couldn’t be easier. Me dia backup As we expand our image and media collection, we’ll not only need large capacity hard drives, but also data backups. Star rat ing photos Some of you might be familiar with the Windows operating system’s star ratings. Here’s h ow to get this happening: Step one: Right-click an image in the Organizer.
Searching for pictures usin g Metadata Metadata is little more than a small text file that records all your camera details at the time a photo is taken. Organizing your work — Ke yword Tags One of the best features in Elements is its ability to sort out hundreds, thousands, or even tens of thousands of images using the tested method of key word tags.
Organizing your wor k — Places The Organizer has a huge range of features designed to help photographers keep track of, and search for, their images. Organizing your wor k — Events The Events category is, I think, more useful to everyday photographers. Organizing your wor k — People Elements’ People mode is really all about using face recognition, an algorithm that analyzes images in the background as they are imported into the Organizer for the f irst time.
File format chara cteristics Choosing the right format to save your edited work is an important decision because it can have direct ramifications on both final image quality and your backup and archiving practices. These include the following: Create n ew catalogs. Rename existi ng catalogs. Convert a previous, older version of an Elements catalog to the new version of t he software.
Optimize a catalog—this helps reduce its size, making it mor e efficient. Co lor spaces Cameras, all monitors, and most printers can display only a limited range of colors — this is called the color space. Color manageme nt options It’s a sad fact that all image editing is virtually worthless if the monitor on which you make all your creative decisions doesn’t actually represent the correct color, brightness, and contrast ac curately.
Screen and printer c alibration Another important technique for ensuring that what you see onscreen is accurate is to calibrate your monitor with a hardware calibratio n device. Organizer keyboard shortcuts I always provide my students with a list of keyboard shortcuts.